Patchwork Heart Quilt Top

Patchwork Heart Quilt Top

Fabric: at least 21 FQs for best variety, more is great, I used 22. Try to have about one third each, light, medium and dark fabrics.

General
All seams are scant ¼ inch.
All seams are pressed open.

Cutting:
From 3 light prints, cut (1) 5.5” square
From 3 dark prints, cut (1) 5.5” square
From all FQs cut (3) 3.5 x 14” strips

Assembly:
1. First make the HSTs by matching 3 sets of light and dark squares, right sides together. Stitch around all four sides of the paired squares. Slice on each diagonal of joined pairs. Each quarter will be a HST, press the seam and true up to 3.5 inch square.  (You will have 2 extra HSTs to use on the back or another project.)



2.  Looking at the above photo, lay out ten of the HSTs with the dark side toward the center of the heart. Choose 5 to 7 of the dark strips, and cut (20) 3.5” squares. Use these to fill in the heart. Chose 3 light color strips and cut 6 3.5” squares to fill out the background, on the lower quadrants. Stitch the squares together in each row, press the seams.  Now, stitch the 6 rows together, press the seams.  You now have a heart block, 36 patch block.



3. Next, using strips of light and medium fabrics, stitch together a 3 strip block and a 4 strip block. Cut the blocks, crosswise across the strips, at 3.5”, producing 2 sets of identical strips.



Join 2 three block strips, on the short end, twice, making 2 six block strips. Repeat for the four block sets, making 2 eight block sets. Stitch the six block sets to the right and left sides of the heart block. Press the seams. Stitch the eight block sets to the top and bottom of the heart block, and press the seams. This is the center of the Patchwork Heart Quilt Top, a 64 patch block.



4. Now, this is the easy part. Take the remaining 3.5 x 14” strips and divide then into twelve sets of 4 strips. Try to make them all different in composition.


Stitch the strip sets together producing twelve 12.5 x 14” blocks.

5. Cut the twelve 12.5 x 14” blocks, crosswise across the strips, at 3.5”, as you did above, producing four identical strips. Have some fun mixing up the strips to make 16 patch blocks to use to frame the center heart block.

6. Join 2 sets of 16 patch blocks together, stitch to the right and left side of the center heart block. Join 4 sets of 16 patch clocks, end to end, and stitch to the top and bottom of the quilt top. Be sure to press the seams between each step, and you are finished!



May your bobbins always be full

Positive Queen Quilt Tutorial



I had an inquiry about making a custom quilt for a lady.  I'd seen the quilt she wanted on Pinterest, but the original quilter didn't mention a pattern or a tutorial, so it was up to me to do the math and come with with a plan for making my customers' quilt.  I was only interested in making the queen size, so I made a trial quilt, based on my math.  This is the quilt she wanted, in queen size.

deux petites souris: Positivity...

She wants the same colors with a solid light yellow binding, not pieced.  It appears to me that this quilt is much smaller that queen size and the pieces are squares.  In doing my math, I discovered that square units for the solid color fabric wouldn't work, the quilt would not be a queen size.  I made the necessary adjustments to keep my customers' quilt, true to the original image, but the size she wants.

If you follow along, you'll end up with a Positive Queen Size Quilt Top, 85" x 94".

Materials:

1/2 yard of twelve different fabrics
2.5 to 3 yards of background fabric, the extra half yard is for just in case.

Cutting Instructions

Fabric for the pluses:

From each 1/2 yard of fabric, cut (2) 9" pieces WOF.  From these strips cut (1) 29" piece and (2) 10" pieces; giving you (1) 9" x 29" rectangle and (2) 9" x 10" rectangles.  Press these pieces, fold in half along the longest side and press a halfway mark.

Background Fabric, cut (10) 9" strips WOF.

From these strips, cut
(6) 9" x 15.25" pieces - rows B
(16) 9" x 5" pieces - rows C
(8) 9" x 10.5" pieces - rows C
(2) 9" x 19.5" pieces - rows A
(4) 9"x 25.5" pieces - rows A

I recommend cutting the larger pieces, first.

Construction:



This quilt has eleven rows, but it's made up of only four different rows, repeated using different fabrics.  All the rows should be 85" long when joined.

Join the (2) rows D.
Join the (3) rows B.
Working one at a time, join the (4) rows C, making sure you've got the proper top and bottom "arms", going together.  I laid out the necessary rows B and D to help.
Join the (2) rows A.

Now you're ready to stitch the entire quilt top together.  This is when you'll use those halfway press marks, to keep every thing even.  I recommend joining the rows in groups of three, plus one set of two rows; then join two sets together, giving you two halves of the quilt.  When you join the two halves, you'll have a finished Positive Queen Size Quilt Top.  Do your final "truing-up" and you'll be ready to make your quilt back.



May your bobbins always be full

Double Circle of Squares, 25 Patch Block Tutorial


Through Pinterest, I found a great block called Circle of Squares, posted by Geoff of the ToeFeather blog. He also posted a great tutorial, over 2 1/2 years ago.   I thought I'd make it my own, by making a Double Circle of  Squares.  I'm really happy with the result.  I used left over bits from the Dolce quilt I just finished.

Here's how I made mine.


You'll need (24) 2.5" x 2.5" squares.  This is a great time to fussy cut if you want.


Strip-piece (12) of the squares to 2.5" WOF, strips.


Cut the units apart and press toward the print.


Still stip-piecsing, attach a 2.5" strip to the side, and cut apart and press.  In the original block, these were 4 patches, I change them up because it was more logical, to me.


Take the four remaining units, still using the strip-piecing method, attach a 1.5" strip to the right and left.


Cut apart, and press to the center.  These units were not in the original block, but I thought they were necessary to keep the movement going for the outer circle.


You're almost to the end of the strip-piecing.  For the remaining units, attach a 1.5" strip to all four sides.  Do this a step at a time.  Attach a strip, cut apart, press, and repeat three more times.  Left, right, top, then bottom.


Lay the blocks out for final assembly.  I first put down the inner circle, 9 patch, then the outer circle, making it a 25 patch.  You can see there was one more patch, a plain 4.5" x 4.5" square, for the center.


A couple of more photos  of the block.  The block measures 21" x 21", so it will finish 20.5" square.



May your bobbins always be full

12.5" Churn Dash Block

I looked at how other tutorials for a 12.5" Churn Dash Block were written, and I knew I wouldn't follow them.  I followed the idea of the other tutorials and did my own thing.  I thought I'd share it with you.










Refrain from trueing up the four HSTs. 

Join a 2.5x4.5" print piece with a matching background piece on one side.  Do this for all four units.  I used a 12.5" square ruler to transport my pieces between the cutting board, sewing machine and ironing board.


Lay out the center pieces, like a cross, then add the four HSTs.


Sew the three pieces of the top row together, follow with the middle row, then the bottom row.  Press the seams.  Now, join the three rows together, press the seams, and true up the block to 12.5 inches square.


 There you have it.
May your bobbins always be full
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